Inspired Travel: Tour de France stirs a passion to cycle; so why not surrender?

LOIRE VALLEY, France – Each year, the televised coverage of the Tour de France (through July 25 this year) inspires a passion – not only among serious cyclists but anyone who enjoys getting out on two wheels to discover backroads and beautiful landscapes.

If you’ve ever dreamed of rolling through fields of poppies and historic villages of France, the Loire Valley offers an amazing, long-distance cycling trail called Loire a velo, following the meandering path of the Loire River.

Over mostly gentle terrain, the cycling route is ideally suited for leisurely biking and discovering the many chateaus and rich heritage of the region where nine kings of France spent their holiday time.

During the last 10 years, the Loire Valley regions have developed 650 kilometers of the sign-posted cycling route that stretches from central France through the main cities of the Loire Valley – Orleans, Blois, Tours, Angers and Nantes – to the Atlantic coast.

A combination of cycling paths and small roads with little traffic, Loire a velo will encompass 800 kilometers when completed and tie into the trans-European cycle route Eurovelo 6, eventually linking the Atlantic to the Black Sea.

With fascinating history as a backdrop and excellent wines and gastronomy of the region, it follows that cycling is only part of the appeal. I set out with friends who were more into the culture than time in the saddle, so we rode sections of the trail and shuttled between stops with a guide.

We began in Angers, a progressive city with an urban square and a pleasant pedestrian zone and cycling path. Angers’ main attraction is its formidable 13th century fortress with 17 towers, where inside the world’s largest medieval needlework piece, the Apocalypse Tapestry, is displayed.

Heading east towards Tours, we explored riverside villages, vineyards, medieval towns and fortified castles along the way.

Saumur is a popular stop for cycling tourists, an attractive town once inhabited by Coco Chanel and home to the famous French National Equestrian School. Its chateau boasts splendid views across the valley, and the surrounding area is famous for troglodytes – cave dwellings converted to wine caves, mushroom farms, unique restaurants and underground attractions.

Not far from Saumur, the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud makes a nice excursion where one can tour the beautifully restored church, cloisters, gardens and intriguing Romanesque kitchen of the 12th century monastic settlement – one of the largest in Europe.

On the Vienne River (a Loire tributary), the medieval fortress town of Chinon is a quaint, cobblestoned town with a colorful history well preserved. From Chinon, the cycling path continues to many Loire Valley gems, including the “fairytale” castle of Usse, the Italian Renaissance-style Azay-le-Rideau and Chateau Villandry, famous for its terraced Renaissance gardens.

Villandry is a must-see for garden enthusiasts who will delight in the geometric patterns and artistic floral expression in garden designs of various themes: ornamental, water, sun, vegetables and herbs.

We ended our tour in the medieval town of Amboise, where it is said that Renaissance art first came to France from Italy. Touristy but nonetheless charming, Amboise boasts two jewels: its chateau and the well-visited Clos Luce, Leonardo de Vinci’s home during the last years of his life. One can tour his quarters, see models of his inventions and even take a painting class if so inspired.

The Loire Valley is France’s third leading wine producer, well known for white wines of the chenin grape. A highlight of our winery visits was Bouvet-Ladubay, a producer of award-winning sparkling wines, where we sampled a recently launched “bubbly” that was created with actor Gerard Depardieu, the label bearing his name.

Like the Tour de France, Loire a velo can be ridden in stages from village to village, or, as we did, a few sections along a chosen itinerary. In addition to the Loire a velo trail, extra circuits designated chateaux a velo are marked for biking to many more historic stately “homes” of the Loire Valley including Chambord, Chaumont and Cheverny.

Bike rentals, luggage transport and accommodations can be arranged for a self-catered trip through the tourism network Accueil velo. If planning is not your cup of tea, turn-key trips are offered by many tour operators that handle all the details and logistics.

By the time you’ve seen so many grand chateaus, you think you’re dreaming when you wake up in one, as it was for me at Domaine de la Tortiniere near Tours. A Relais du Silence chateau hotel, the family-run Tortiniere offers a relaxing stay in a park-like setting. Some privately owned chateaus offer bed and breakfast accommodations through the organization Bienvenue au Chateau. It’s possible to cycle and tour the chateaus by day and sleep in one at night.

With a currently favorable exchange rate of the dollar relative to the Euro, there is no better time to live like a king while discovering the heritage of a royal land.

ANN N. YUNGMEYER is a freelance writer. She may be reached at features@bristolnews.com.

MORE TO SEE AND DO
Cointreau distillery near Angers – see how the revered orange liqueur is made and discover new cocktails.

Terra Botanica – kids and adults will enjoy Europe’s first theme park devoted to plant life.

Dine in a troglodytic cave restaurant where menus feature mushrooms grown in the caves, escargot (snails) and other troglodytic cuisine.

Take a riverboat ride from Candes St. Martin, designated as one of the most beautiful villages of France.

Visit fourth generation artisan chocolatier, Bigot, in Amboise and attend a chocolate-making demo/tasting (pre-scheduled times).

Check out candlelight visits and evening sound and light programs at many chateaus during summer season – Blois, Chenonceau, Azay-le-Rideau, Amboise, Villandry, Clos Luce and others.

Getting there: Air France flies direct from Atlanta to Paris. From Paris, Rail Europe offers TGV (high speed) and regional rail service to many Loire Valley cities.

For trip planning visit: http://us.franceguide.com or www.cycling-loire.com.